JAPANESE PRINTS
A MILLION QUESTIONS
TWO MILLION
MYSTERIES
Ukiyo-e Prints
浮世絵版画
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Port Townsend, Washington |
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UTAGAWA
TOYOKUNI I
歌川豊国
うたがわとよくに
1769-1825
The actor Bandō Mitsugorō III
(坂東三津五郎 or ばんどうみつごろう)
standing in
front of a noodle stand
as
Tamaya Shinbei
(玉や新兵衛 or
たまやしんべい)
Play:
伊勢平氏摂神風
いせへいじひいきのかみかぜ
Signed: Toyokuni ga
Publisher: Yamamoto
Heikichi
版元: 山本平吉
はんもと: やまもとへいきち
1818, 11th Month
Bunka 15
文化 15
ぶんか 15
SOLD!
THANKS S! |
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There is another copy of this print in the collection of the
Ritsumeikan University. Although our example shows a lot of wear it is much
more complete than theirs. Also it would appear that this is only one panel
of a multi-panel composition. |
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Above is a detail from another print by Toyokuni I
showing a different actor in the role of Shinbei in a summer robe. Note the
stripes. The striped robe may have been a convention
common to this character. The print on this page includes a striped garment. |
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玉
屋
Tamaya
can indicate the name of a jeweler or it could simply indicate a
family or business name. |
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そ
ば |
う
ど
ん |
Soba |
Udon |
Above is the signage advertising the noodle
stand. The text reads: nihachi udon soba |
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Shown above is an andon or lamp typical of
this type of stand. You will notice the flap which can be raised so a candle
can be inserted and lit within. At night the characters shown on the box
would transluce and help attract customers much as neon signs would today. |
"Transluce" is an obsolete and rare word
unused since the early 17th century, but I thought it looked appropriate and
good here. So, why not? |
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Kunisada noodle
salesman
circa 1820 |
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SOBA AND UDON |
蕎麦 |
饂飩 |
そば |
うどん |
Two days ago on Tuesday May 27th, 2003 a Japanese friend of mine came
over to cook me dinner. Afterwards I was showing him some of my prints. When
he saw this one he began telling me things about it which I did not know.
Reading the Hiragana on the andon shown above he pointed out the script for
the soba and udon elements which immediately became clear to me. What
puzzled him was the "nihachi" (二八
or にはち)
part. The next day he called his mother in Tokyo and she cleared it up
for us.
Anyone familiar with the distinctions between regional cuisines such as
Northern Italian vs. Southern or deep dish Chicago pizzas and those made
elsewhere knows what I am talking about. My friend's mother told him that
the "nihachi" (二八) was an
expression of proportionality which traditionally has been specifically
pleasing to the Tokyo (i.e., Edo) palate: 20 parts udon to 80 parts soba. My
hat is off to my friend's mother for providing us with this information.
Otherwise for me it would have always remained a conundrum. |
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Detail of
basket of
chopsticks on
right. |
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Today, Nov. 13, 2003, I
received an e-mail from a scholarly friend who said: "Why are these
chopsticks; couldn't they be dried noodles, to keep them fresh and not
over-boiled?" Good point! Doesn't he know that already occurred to me.
However, I identified them as chopsticks because of an off-hand comment of a
Japanese friend. Who better would know? If you know please contact me. I
will pass the information along.
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For those of
you who did not know, like me, soba are buckwheat noodles. Zarusoba (笊蕎麦 or
ざる そば) are boiled noodles traditionally served cold on a bamboo mat or
shallow bowl.
Wankosoba (
椀子蕎麦 or わんこそば) is a specialty of Iwate Prefecture which involves eating
numerous small bowls of soba with a dipping broth which can be flavored in a
multitude of various ways.
Kake soba (掛け蕎麦
or
かけそば) is buckwheat noodles in hot broth.
Cha-soba
(茶蕎麦 or ちゃそば) which is a form of soba made with the addition of green
tea.
Yomogi-soba
(蓬蕎麦 or よもぎそば) is soba made with mugwort.
Toshikoshi
soba (年越蕎麦 or としこしそば) is "year-crossing" soba eaten on the eve of a new year
and intended to bring long life.
There are
more soba terms, but I have to stop somewhere. |
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"The dried noodles are expensive, but there
is no real substitute for their slightly nutty, appealing taste..."
Quoted from: Joy of Cooking, by Irma
S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker, published by Scribner,
1997, p. 323. |
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Shirley Booth, not the Academy Award
winning actress of Hazel fame, in her Food in Japan (pp. 26-7) points out that
buckwheat has no gluten which explains why it is often mixed with wheat
flour. However, purists who want the fullest flavor buy soba which is
unadulterated, but that much more expensive. Buckwheat is high in rutin
which is a blood thinner and "...could be one of the contributory factors to
Japan's traditionally low incidence of heart disease."
Booth (pp. 106-7) adds that buckwheat
is not a grain, but the seed of a herbaceous plant.
When I was younger there was an organization
called the Welcome Wagon which visited new residents to my hometown. In
Japan they have the custom of giving gifts of soba to new neighbors. Booth
notes that this is
referred to as hikkoshi soba
引越そば "...which literally
means 'moving next to you.' The Japanese have many hononyms [sic], and this
is one of them." |
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Buckwheat flowers
from which the seeds are
gathered for the making of soba. |
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Udon noodles are made
from wheat flour.
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WINK, WINK,
NUDGE, NUDGE |
Anyone
familiar with the Japanese language and culture knows that there are layers
upon layers of meaning in almost every word, image, adage, etc. Double
entendres, allusions, metaphors and puns run like a rushing underground
current just below the surface of almost all traditional woodblock
prints. The same is true of literature, both poetry and prose. Often these
references have an element of eroticism to them. |
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Detail on
the left of a noodle salesman by Hiroshige. |
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Nihachi |
二八 |
Nihachi,
which is mentioned above in regards to the popular Edo combination of soba
and udon noodles, also has a subtle erotic meaning. Sebastian Izzard quotes
a poem by Funanoya Tsunando in which he plays upon the words nihachi and
soba: "The controlling pun of the verse alludes to nihachi soba
('two-eight noodles'), noodles that cost sixteen mon a bowl. A common
Japanese expression refers to a teenage girl of sixteen as nihachi,
literally 'two eights'." Izzard points out that the pun has an extra punch
by referring to a courtesan who claims to be sixteen, but in reality is
somewhat older.* |
Detail to
the right by Yoshiiku ca. 1863 of a man before a nihachi stand. |
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* Kunisada's World,
by Sebastian Izzard, Japan Society, Inc., 1993, cat. #20, p. 74. |
Martha Stewart says: "Personally,
I consider Japanese cuisine one of my favorites."
However that doesn't stop me from liking it, too. |
A NOTE ON THE
CHOICE OF BACKGROUND MOTIFS ON THESE WEB PAGES
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Nearly all
traditional Japanese woodblock prints are remarkable in their usage of
decorative motifs. Each one offers a choice of beautiful designs. Some of
these patterns are used for decades while others only appear for short
periods of time and are often so subtle that they go largely overlooked or
taken for granted.
Originally when I
posted this page I had chosen
to utilize an imaginative floral motif which seems somewhat distantly akin
to a peacock feather. (I changed it to a soba leaf wallpaper on
January 31, 2008.) This particular motif does not appear in prints often.
In fact, I have only run across it on a few occasions. One similar example
is found on the robes of an Eizan print of "The Courtesan Tsumeikuno (?)
of the Okamotoya (Okamotoya uchi Tsumeikuno?), from the series three elegant
Beauties (Furyu san bijin)" which is in the collection of the Fine Arts
Museums of San Francisco.* Two other Eizan prints of bijin use similar
motifs: one is illustrated in Exhibition of Ukiyo-e Beauties by
Kikukawa Eizan from the Riccar Museum (plate 41, 1985) dated 1816-18
while another being offered in the trade is from ca.1811-13. At least three
different Edo publishers, Maruya Jimpachi, Ezakiya Kichibei and Eikyudo,
utilized this motif between during this period.
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Toyokuni
I detail |
Toyokuni
I detail |
Eizan
detail |
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Kunisada
detail 1823 |
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Kunisada
detail ca. 1820 |
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*The FAMSF
on-line image base is one of the best to be found anywhere and any serious
student, scholar, collector or art lover should take a look and add this
site to their favorites bookmarks. |
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There
is a story in European art history told by Vasari about Raphael's encounter
with Michelangelo's paintings. Michelangelo had displeased the Pope and fled
Rome temporarily. Bramante had the keys to the Sistine Chapel and let his
friend Raphael in to see the frescoes. This had a profound affect on Raphael
who returned to his own work a changed man.
It would be interesting to know the exact
relationships and rivalries between Ukiyo-e artists or between their
publishers. Who was the first to use a particular motif? Who was the creator
and who was the imitator? Perhaps we will never know and it will forever be
another one of those chicken and eggs things, but it is fun to ponder. |
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